Friday, February 20, 2009

Drainage Problems?

This is a common issue, especially in new developments where the topsoil has been scraped away and the only thing left behind is compacted clay. There are actually some options.

Let’s discuss.

If you are in an area that typically has water restrictions over the summer months, placing barrels under your downspouts will catch the rainwater so you can water your garden over drier periods. Barrels will prevent runoff from the downspouts which often collects within a 6 (or so) foot radius of the downspout. Retailers can be found by searching for rain barrels on www.google.com if you think that this may solve the problem.

Is the rain just hitting the ground and running off? Then, you need to be building up your lawn to make it healthier. Remember, weeds can’t grow in healthy soil (that’s the incentive). Lawns can be built up by tilling in organic matter, such as aged compost, aged manure mix, straw, etc. Aeration can also help water soak in. Sometimes it can take several attempts of aeration to see results. Soil softeners can help the ground absorb water. Like aeration, it often requires several applications before results can be seen.

French drains are made by digging deep trenches. In the bottom of the trench is placed a layer of rock, followed by black perforated piping covered with a weed cloth and then covering the piping with rock to the top of trench. French drains are (or can be) complicated issues, so a professional should be consulted to install them.

Dry creek beds are beautiful ways to direct excess water to where you want it to go. They are slightly dug out beds or paths, placing landscape fabric in the depression followed by pebbles/gravel/larger rocks. In some cases, the water’s path is already clear in your yard, so use that to your advantage and create a dry creek bed and then landscape around it. It can be a great focal point as well as utility.

When working to alleviate drainage problems, keep in mind to route the water to an area that will not pose any further problems. One place is to your curb, but you should check with your development or city regulations first. Should you have a drainage ditch (common in most developments) bordering one side of your property, route the water to it. Never route drain water to a neighbors property.

Of course, if you can’t drain it, use it!!! Where the water lays, create a bog garden. Plants that will work in such an area are: vinca, spiraea, viburnum, goat’s beard, phlox, ferns (shade), daylilies, irises, bamboo (clumping varieties), red twig or other shrub dogwoods, acorus ogon grass, french pussy willow, nishiki willow, giant pussy willow, solomon’s seal, liriope, maples, green ash, bald cypress, river birch, elm, white pine, hemlock, sourwood, tulip poplar, blueberry, cranberry, red chokeberry, sambucus, holly, spicebush, oaks, red bud, serviceberry, hostas (shade), anemones, and gaillardia. If you have a really marshy area, check at your local fish store for pond plants.


One last thing before I leave off this week. My daughter, Cydney, wanted something on an easy way to compost. Well, Cyd, I have come across a great way to compost without getting overly involved. Dig a trench about 12 to 14 inches deep where you plan to plant or create a garden next spring. Over spring and summer, toss in your kitchen wastes such as vegetable and fruit peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds, banana skins, corn husks, fish (bones, scales and heads), seafood scraps, and egg shells (though they need to be crushed into fine particles).

Do not add grease, oil, fats, ashes, seeds, or bones (other than fish or seafood).
Once you toss in your scraps, cover with a sprinkling of soil and then you will be ready for the next layer. Also, covering each layer helps to keep the local wildlife out of your compost trench. You want to be able to top your trench off with at least 6 inches of soil. Be sure to leave room for that. Over the summer and fall, the compost will “cook” so that by next spring you will have a wonderfully nutritious place for planting your new perennials or rows of vegetables.

That’s a lot of information for one setting.

Until next time…….Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cheryl@greenwoodnursery.com .