Being Thrifty!

(Originally submitted to Cheryl's Notes February, 2008) This is the perfect time for pulling out all of those planting pots out of the garage or basement. Wipe the cobwebs off and wash them out. Decide which you want to use for inside plants and which for outside plants. If you need to replace a few or just want to update your selection, February is a great month to find “new” ones at the thrift stores and you may even find some lawn statues, bird cages, and other outside decorations as well.

Thrift shops receive lots of donations over December and January and by mid/late January; they are putting “new” things out on the shelves. So many people drop off plant pots and other containers that are just perfect for plants. Many can be found for less than a few dollars each.

There are many thrift stores around such as Goodwill, Salvation Army, St. Vincent de Paul and Value Village are found in many cities across the country. When I have to go on road trips, I try to schedule in a visit to the local thrift shop. If you are fortunate to visit the coastal Maine area, visit the Goodwill Stores. L.L. Bean, based in Freeport, ME, donates (or at least use to) their returns, etc, to the regional Goodwill Stores. Other areas of the country where there are large catalog houses or manufacturers may do the same.

Because of my schedule, I rarely have time to stop at yard or tag sales, so thrift shops over the years have become one of my weaknesses. When visiting thrift stores, be open minded in what you see. You want containers that are sturdy. Will you be able to drill a hole in the bottom for drainage without destroying the container? Clay pots can often be found there. When filling them, remember, don’t fill anything over 12 inches tall with nothing but dirt/potting soil. Place several inches (at least) of Styrofoam peanuts or other light weight items, such as broken tile pieces, etc. This will not only keep the weight of the container lighter, but helps considerably with drainage.

If anyone would like to share any of the interesting conversions that they have made for their gardens from thrift store purchases, drop me a note and they can be shared in a later Cheryl’s Note.

And don’t forget the ultimate thrift find…..asking moms, grandmothers, aunts, other relatives, and friends if they have any plant pots that they aren’t using.

Until next week….
Cheryl

Early Spring Garden Maintenance Tips:

The best time for pruning plants is coming up over the next couple of months. Here in Tennessee, Steve and I generally do this over a Saturday or two in early March. Of course, if you have a warm weekend the latter part of February, you might want to go ahead and jump on it as you know, if you don’t it could end up being another month or so before a warm weekend happens again.

Arm yourself with a rake, weed eater or heavy shears, a tool belt, apron with pockets, basket, or pail, filled with clippers, gardening scissors, gardening gloves, old cloths, trash bag(s) and (if available) a small garden saw. Start on one side of your property or garden and work across the yard and then clockwise around your house and other out buildings beginning with the front/main entrance. The point is to be able to go over all areas of your landscape so that you don’t miss plants.

Always begin an area by tackling the larger growing plants, whether trees or shrubs. First cut or saw out all branches that are dead, broken, touching or crossing. Then, if necessary, trim for shape. From the larger trees and shrubs, move onto smaller growing plants, such as ornamental grasses (which you will be cutting to the ground with either the weed eater or heavy shears), roses, evergreen herbs, perennials, ground covers, etc. Remember, if you haven’t pulled out the annuals that were planted last year, it’s time to remove them now.

Once all plants have been pruned, shaped and otherwise cleaned up in an area, rake the clippings into the trash bag and move onto the next. By cleaning up an area completely, if you have to stop that day for some reason before finishing, you can begin with a new area and don’t have to back track.
You know, I find it easier to make sandwiches the night before for lunch, so Steve and I don’t have to completely stop. This way, we get to picnic outside. (It’s much easier!).

Watch for that warm weekend and I’ll follow up with you next week.
Cheryl

Natural Skin Care Ideas

I'm totally into natural skin care. After getting home, the first thing I wanted to do is wash with a good hand scrub to get all of the dirt off my hands and from underneath my nails. A sugar scrub is just the trick and it works famously after a day in the garden as well. Pour some granulated sugar (not much, a tablespoon should work fine) in the palm of your hand and add just enough olive oil to make a loose mix. Scrub your hands and wrists thoroughly while still dry. Then, rinse in warm water. (Serious Note: if you are diabetic, don’t use sugar scrubs). I prefer the sugar scrub to a salt scrub as it doesn’t burn on the cuts and nicks that I get from the plants and paper cuts. If you are diabetic, you can scrub with salt (kosher or regular table salt), corn meal, or baking soda. Anything that has a dense grinding will work with olive oil.

The best way to forget about the aches and pains associated with the physical aspects of gardening is to soak in a tub filled with water and Epsom salts. Epsom salts comes in bags and cartons. Generally, the directions say to add in about 1 or 2 cups of salts. Soak and relax. Even if it is only for 10 minutes, SOAK! Your muscles will thank you. You will be calmer and your attitude much better. It’s like a mini vacation for your body.

While I’m on the topic of taking care of ourselves with natural skin care products, let me offer a couple of other favorites.

For any age and complexion type, an oatmeal scrub is the absolute best you can do. It will leave your face feeling so soft. Just take a cup or so of oatmeal, the regular cooking kind, and put it in a blender, food processor, or put it in a zippy type plastic bag and squash it. You want it in smaller bits, but not completely pulverized. When you are ready to scrub your face, just put a small amount, roughly just over a tablespoon, in your palm and mix in enough water to form a paste and scrub your forehead, around the eyes, nose, cheeks, chin and neck. Remember, upward strokes on the neck. Rise with warm water and pat dry. You may not even feel the need for moisturizer. If you have complexion issues, it’s great. With continued use, it can really make a difference and after a day in the sun, it can truly help to take the sting out of the burn.

To really feel like you are pampering yourself, boil some water, pour it in a glass or ceramic bowl, toss in some fresh or dried rosemary leaves, lean over the bowl and cover your head and the bowl with a towel. Rosemary steamers are great for a quick pick me up and, again, if you have complexion issues, it will help with regular use.


Okay, I have gotten off the subject of gardening. But, when you’ve been outside working all day on Saturday and feel a little rough, you’ll love these natural skin care ideas.


Until next time……Cheryl

Fertilizing Garden Plants: Yes, No, Maybe!!!

My staff asked me if I would address fertilizing garden plants this week. Our office receives many emails and phone calls on this very topic. Customers and site members often send in pictures of their sick plants to see if we can work with them to figure out what is going wrong. Even before looking at the picture we need to know how the plants have been cared for, such as watering cycle, lawn care, and if, what and how often fertilize was applied.

Stressed plants will exhibit the same characteristics whether or not they have been over or under watered. It is a matter of realizing how often the plants are being watered and/or checking the soil to see if it is dry or wet, and, then doing the opposite.

Lawn care is necessary to know as many people plant trees and shrubs in the middle of their lawn. All herbicides, pesticides, and fertilize applied onto lawns to make them green and grow soaks down into the root system of these plants and they are directly affected by these chemicals.

Fertilize, ah to fertilize! This is the one thing that I feel is most commonly misused or should I say abused. Maybe it is due to lack of knowledge on it. To a new homeowner or new gardener, I am sure looking at shelves full of so many different products is overwhelming and somewhat intimidating. Before I go into what can be used, I want to begin with what one should not do.

Never, ever, ever, never:

1.Fertilize without watering in afterwards
2.Allow fertilize or the dust to settle and stay on any part of the plant (always wash off)
3.Spray water soluble fertilizers, such as Miracle Grow, over the tree or shrub with the reasoning that it will be absorbed through the leaves
4.Fertilize trees, shrubs, or perennials during the heat of summer or drought periods
5.Dump fertilize on the ground near a plant with the attitude that “Oh, it will eventually soak in”
6.Apply multiple fertilizers
7.Begin a fertilize program without first testing your soil’s pH
8.Fertilize plants year round

I know, no one wants to hear it, but soil testing is a necessary evil if fertilizing is part of your routine. They should be run about every 3 to 5 years so the soil structure can be amended properly.

Remember the 3 R’s on fertilizing:

Right blend
Right amount
Right time of year

Now, you ask, “But, Cheryl, if I can’t just dump fertilize onto the ground, how will I know if, when and how I should fertilize?” Not to worry, I have taken care of that for you. This link to the North Carolina State University Extension Site gives everything you always wanted to know about fertilizing, but were afraid to ask. It also covers natural fertilizers with enough information so you can decide if and when you might use them.

Bookmark it or print out this pdf for keeping on file for referencing.
http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/a-gardeners-guide-to-fertilizing-trees-and-shrubs

Until next time……Cheryl

Visit www.GreenwoodNursery.com for a wide selection of shade trees, flowering shrubs, perennial plants, ground covers, grasses, strawberry plants, raspberry & blackberry bushes, and more.

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at mail@greenwoodnursery.com.

List of shade loving plants to brighten up woodland areas

Coloring Woodland Areas

Isn’t spring great? It really brightens up woodland areas with lots of colors just bursting out saying “Hey, look at me!” I think that is what sparks us to want to add color to our own shaded patches. The artist part of us comes out in wanting to splash color into our surroundings and the fun part is that it doesn’t stop with spring just as Claude Monet did at his garden in Giverny. This is a fall picture looking across the famous pond at the oriental bridge. The pond as well as each of his plantings was carefully planned by Monet. Over one hundred years old and (of course with regular maintenance) and the gardens still look as beautiful today as I can imagine that they did when he first created them.

I have put together a list of shade loving plants from ground covers, to perennials, shrubs and trees that will grow in shaded zones. Now, most will produce spring color while a few others will just add something special to the blend.

Strategically placing plants with color can give a whole new look to your woodland or shaded areas. It’s especially easy if you have a digital camera. You can take pictures of the areas you want to enhance with color or texture, print them out or just study them on the screen and you can visualize how you would like to see the woodlands as the seasons unfold.





Ground covers for shade:

• Ajuga
• Pachysandra
• Vinca
• Cotoneaster (creeping)
• moss


Perennials for shade:

• Ferns
• Tiarella
• Anemone
• Aster
• Astilbe
• Dicentra
• Helleborus
• Heuchera
• Hypericum
• Hosta
• Solomon’s seal
• Carex
• Liriope


Shrubs for shade:

• Mountain laurels
• Sambucus
• Azaleas
• Rhododendrons
• Bamboo
• Carolina allspice
• Shrub dogwood
• Hydrangeas
• Nandina
• Holly

Trees for shade:

• White flowering dogwood
• Red bud
• Serviceberry
• Sourwood
• Cedar
• Hemlock
• White pine
• Sycamore
• Green ash
• Poplars


Don’t try to do your entire project at one time. Working on it over several years allows you to see that you are on the right track for what you want as the outcome.

And don’t forget about ways to move through your wooded area. Bark mulch walkways and stepping stones make great paths. Benches, whether wood, stone or metal, give excellent reasons to sit and enjoy from the inside out. Rocks of all sizes and even boulders look stately with moss growing over them and are right at home in wooded and shaded spaces.

I hope this has given you some ideas to build on to make your own woodland area as beautiful as a Monet painting.

Until next time……Cheryl


To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at info@greenwoodnursery.com

All About Mulch Plus How to Calculate How Much You Need

Mulch: Why, When, Where, and with What?

Mulch has to be the single best thing you can do for your plants and have such grand results from. You can take a drab landscape, apply mulch around the plants and garden areas and by evening, the same drab landscape looks as though it is maintained professionally. That’s when we sign and know that we’ve done a good job (pat on the back).

The sole purpose of mulch is to protect the soil. It should allow enough air space and for water to percolate down to the ground. There are 2 types of mulches: Organic and Inorganic.


Organic Mulches consist of:

• Wood chips
• Aged compost
• Aged manure
• Shredded Leaves
• Grass clippings
• Pine bark
• Pine needles
• Pecan shells (if you’re near a factory)
• Straw (not hay as it has weed seed)
• Ground cover (phlox, vinca, purple wintercreeper, pachysandra, liriope, mondo grass, etc)

Inorganic Mulches consist of:

• Rocks
• Pebbles
• Gravel
• Crushed stone
• Crushed lava rock
• Black plastic
• Landscape cloth
• Ground rubber tires
• Other recycled materials

The reasons to mulch can go on and on. However, let’s talk about a few of them. It creates enough of a defined area around trees and shrubs so that anyone with a mower or weed eater will avoid damaging the plants, and that maybe the most common reason as to the demise of younger plants. Mulching reduces and often eliminates the weed population. It insulates the soil by keeping it at a more even temperature, which is especially helpful during the spring temperature fluctuations. Mulch keeps the soil immediately around the plants cooler and moister. Organic mulch decomposes into the soil building up the nutrient values, thus reducing the need for applying fertilizer. It prevents the soil from compacting and crusting. Mulch helps to grow healthier plants and makes the landscape look neater, cleaner and more attractive.

Studies show that trees and larger shrubs without any grass up to 3 feet away from the base of the plants will increase the growth of the plants.

Too little mulch will not be very effective; on the other hand, too much mulch can kill a good thing (namely plants). So, what’s a person to do? Trial and error? No, that’s takes way too long.
Rather than going through a long drawn out explanation of why, when, where and with what, let’s keep it simple, safe and easy to remember!!!


The Triple 3’s to Mulching-

• 3 inches thick
• 3 feet out from the base of the plant
• 3 inch doughnut around the base of the plants

So, that’s 3 deep, 3 out and 3 for the doughnut. Easy enough!!! Now, what about this doughnut? The doughnut is the welled area at the base of the plant. For proper air circulation and watering, 3 inches (roughly) is needed between the trunk of the plant and where the mulch actually begins. Mulch should never come in contact with the trunk of a shrub or tree, even in a garden setting. Stay away from the volcano look. It is a sure fire way to kill your plants. You want to keep the mulch at an even level all the way through, whether it’s going 3 feet out from the trunk or in a large landscaped area. Remember: Keep It Level

How often to apply mulch really depends on the type of mulch you have chosen. Something light such as grass clippings or shredded leaves will have to be added to quite frequently as it decomposes quickly. Heavier mulches may only need to be freshened once a year. Mulch applied in spring at 3 inches may decompose over summer, so when fall comes around, you will want to check it and possibly add more to bring it back up to the 3 inches to go over winter.

What mulch goes where! Well, I don’t recommend using gravel or other stones as mulch in a planting area between a walk and building foundation. Several things are wrong with this picture. There are too many materials with a high level of lime. Lime often leeches out of the concrete blocks used in most foundations, of course, it’s the dusting on the gravel and what are concrete walkways made of? You got it. Using this is fine as long as you don’t put any plants there. Container gardening will work, but no ground planting.

Also, think about where inorganic mulches will be used before you purchase. For example, you wouldn’t want to use some inorganic mulch around plants that are in full sun. Many of the inorganic types, especially rocks, gravel, and crushed lava will absorb and then radiate the heat. This can damage plants if not burn them. For areas in full sun, it is best to use organic mulches.

Well, there you have it. The Why, When, Where and with What of Mulch. As long as you remember the Triple 3’s to Mulching, you can’t go wrong.

After absorbing this mulch information, you are probably now wondering how much mulch to get. You are so going to love this. At the Clemson University Extension Site, I found the calculation to determine the amount of mulch to buy.

You will need to calculate the surface area that you want to cover (square footage).
There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. One cubic yard will cover 324 square feet with one inch of mulch.

So…..
Calculate the square footage of the area you want to cover.
Take your surface square footage and multiply it by the depth you want to mulch (remember we talked about 3 inches)
Now, that total is divided by 324 which will give you the total number of cubic yards that you will need for the depth that you want.

If you are purchasing from a company that makes mulch you can let them know how many cubic yards you need. But, if you purchase bags of mulch, aged compost or aged manure, they are probably in bags of about 3 cubic feet. Be sure to check the amount on the bags.

Get Mulching!

Spring into Action!

(Originally submitted to Cheryl's Notes 3-5-2008) Spring is almost here. We are still having freezing days followed by days with temperatures in the upper 70’s. The weather is just nuts this time of year. So…what can we do outside? It’s time to aerate your lawn. That’s what you should be doing if your lawn is healthy and gorgeous. But, wait!!!! What if your lawn is not even respectable? I think most of us have neglected our lawns at some point. Before going to a lot of expense in fighting with it, go back to the start. Get your soil tested. The results should give you what you will need to bring your lawn back to good health.

Where does one obtain soil tests? Check with your local Agriculture Extension Office, Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) or Soil Conservation Service. They can be found in your local phone directory under your state’s Department of Agriculture listing.

Here is how you can get started: read this link from the Virginia Cooperative Extension site which clearly explains and shows you how to take soil samples (be in the know before you go to the next step http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/compost/452-129/submitting.html , phone your local extension or conservation office to obtain soil sample bags or boxes, collect your samples and submit them. When the results come back, you should have the amendments and amounts you need to mix into your lawn.

Once you have applied the necessary amendments, if you haven’t already, either aerate or lightly till the ground to break it up. Now, you are ready to spread your grass seed. Where do you find grass seed for your area? A quick visit to your local hardware store or garden center will prove beneficial here. The sales person will need to know if your yard area has lots of shade, is mostly sun, etc. in order to help you select the best blend for your yard. Measurements of your yard will be needed to know how much seed you will need. Before you leave with your grass seed, be sure to get planting and care instructions.

Sow your grass seed according to the information given to you. You may need to cover the area with a light layer of straw to help with germination. The straw will help to hide the seeds from hungry birds, heavy winds, washing away from rain, as well as, creating a cool, moist environment for the seeds to sprout. Once the seeds are sprouting, you can remove the straw. However, leaving it to decompose is good for your new lawn.

Now, you have grass sprouting, so how much and how often do you water it? Well, that is a relative question, although, you will grow healthier grass by watering deeper less frequently. Here is a helpful guide to watering your lawn and landscape.
http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/waterguide/index.shtml

Now you have the basics on how to build a healthy lawn. Get out there and “grow” it!!!

Until next time…….. Cheryl

Basic Principles of Xeriscaping with Plants

After such extreme temperatures and drought over last summer, everyone is searching for plants that not only require less attention, but less water. Just planting cactus and other succulents isn’t the key, but Xeriscaping is. So, let’s learn exactly what this fun to say word is really about.

Xeriscape translates to dry landscape. That is somewhat deceiving as it is not about dry landscaping at all, but gardening efficiently. When we use proper techniques to landscape and garden, we actually save money, time, energy and water over the life of the garden.
So…let’s learn.

The basic principles of Xeriscaping are:

Planning
Soil preparation
Reducing turf areas
Plant selection
Proper irrigation
Mulching


In planning, group plants according to their water and lighting needs. Place taller plants in back areas with shorter growing ones in the front. Remember, it is better to water plants infrequently, yet deeper than to water lightly and often.

Some of the links below will offer you some wonderful plant varieties that are low maintenance and perfect for Xeriscape plants. Here are some of my favorites: rosemary, sage, oregano, lavender, chives, thyme, Russian sage, yarrow, salvia, lamb’s ear, gaillardia, junipers, spiraea, lilac, daylily, honeysuckle, sedum, hibiscus (althea, rose of Sharon), Siberian peashrub (caragana) and ornamental grasses. One thing about ornamental grasses is that during their first year in the ground, they do need watering regularly. After establishing their root system, they become almost drought tolerant.

Mulch should be applied in late spring/early summer to help keep the ground cool and moist. Good choices for mulch are shredded bark mulch, pine needles (although be careful with this one as mold can build up underneath), straw, and even aged compost. Any type of rock, including lava stones, should only be used in shaded areas. Using rocks as mulch in sunny to partially sunny areas will result in too much heat build up and often kills the plants.

The links below have been in my favorites for a long time. I refer back to them all the time and I want to share all of the information on Xeriscaping that they offer. They are filled with wonderful ideas that will help new and old gardeners alike to create more efficient outdoor spaces in their own little corner of the world.

Until next time………..
Cheryl

If these links don't show up to click on, please copy/paste them in the web address box.

http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/xeriscaping-creative-landscaping-7-228/
 (How to)

http://www.denverwater.org/Conservation/Xeriscape/XeriscapePlans/Low-Maintenance/ (garden plans)

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/drought/drought4.html (Sprinkler systems)

Easy to Grow Shrub Roses!


Each week, I receive emails asking how to care for their shrub roses. Shrub roses, which include the Knockout Varieties, are great to work with. They require little effort and hardly any ongoing attention and yet, they bloom gorgeous blooms from April (in many zones) until hit by a hard frost in fall. For the color and life they add to gardens and landscapes for such an extended period, they offer one of the best values around.

Shrub roses, like regular roses, do enjoy a pH of around 6.0 to 7.0. Most much all rose varieties require about 6 hours of sunlight each day, which is preferably morning sunlight. Protection from the hot afternoon summer sun will help to keep them happier. It is a good idea to watch the sunlight in the area you want to plant shrub roses to make certain that there is not only enough light, but afternoon protection.

They grow best in areas with high organic matter content, so you can’t go wrong by mixing in aged manure and/or aged compost into the soil. When planting shrub roses, dig holes 18 to 24 inches deep, place the plant’s root system (minus pot if container grown or minus plastic if bare root), fill in hole with a blending of the soil and organic matter up to the root collar. Then, mound around the base of the plant with aged manure, aged compost, or wood bark mulch. Be sure to add more organic matter or mulch each spring. Water the plants at least once a week during the growing season. Do not water roses by overhead irrigation or other type of sprinkler system. Morning watering is best for shrub roses as it will allow time for the sun to dry any moisture on the leaves.

Organic matter is the best to give the plants the nutrients that they need, but supplement fertilize (if you use it) should be applied in early spring after the shrubs have begun leafing out.

Pruning is a big topic, so let’s address that now. Early spring, before the shrubs begin to leaf out, prune out all dead, broken, damaged, touching, or crossing branches. Once accomplished, the plants can be clipped for shape, which is a personal issue as some like the natural look while others prefer a rounded manicured look.

A couple of common problems of roses to look for are cane borers and canker.

Cane borers are the larvae of Sawflies and Carpenter Bees. They lay their eggs on the tips of newly pruned stems in late spring. The eggs hatch and eat their way through the stems towards the center of the plant. If they reach the center of the plant, it can kill it. If you notice a small hole in the center of a pruned cane, it is a sign that the plant may contain borers. Brown sections on the stems/canes, dying foliage at the top of plant, wilting and yellowing leaves that drop off also can indicate borers. Treatment of borers is simply to prune the cane just below the infected area until you see solid greenish white in the center of the cane.

Rose cane canker is a fungus that spreads down the canes and will can cause girdling of the plant and/or lead up to the death of the plant. I have a link to the University of Illinois Extension site with a report on rose cankers complete with pictures for diagnosing.
http://web.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/pdf_pubs/626.pdf

These are common issues with shrub and other hybrid roses that one should be aware of. I hope you have found it helpful.

Until next time……Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com .

Drainage Problems?

This is a common issue, especially in new developments where the topsoil has been scraped away and the only thing left behind is compacted clay. There are actually some options.

Let’s discuss.

If you are in an area that typically has water restrictions over the summer months, placing barrels under your downspouts will catch the rainwater so you can water your garden over drier periods. Barrels will prevent runoff from the downspouts which often collects within a 6 (or so) foot radius of the downspout. Retailers can be found by searching for rain barrels on www.google.com if you think that this may solve the problem.

Is the rain just hitting the ground and running off? Then, you need to be building up your lawn to make it healthier. Remember, weeds can’t grow in healthy soil (that’s the incentive). Lawns can be built up by tilling in organic matter, such as aged compost, aged manure mix, straw, etc. Aeration can also help water soak in. Sometimes it can take several attempts of aeration to see results. Soil softeners can help the ground absorb water. Like aeration, it often requires several applications before results can be seen.

French drains are made by digging deep trenches. In the bottom of the trench is placed a layer of rock, followed by black perforated piping covered with a weed cloth and then covering the piping with rock to the top of trench. French drains are (or can be) complicated issues, so a professional should be consulted to install them.

Dry creek beds are beautiful ways to direct excess water to where you want it to go. They are slightly dug out beds or paths, placing landscape fabric in the depression followed by pebbles/gravel/larger rocks. In some cases, the water’s path is already clear in your yard, so use that to your advantage and create a dry creek bed and then landscape around it. It can be a great focal point as well as utility.

When working to alleviate drainage problems, keep in mind to route the water to an area that will not pose any further problems. One place is to your curb, but you should check with your development or city regulations first. Should you have a drainage ditch (common in most developments) bordering one side of your property, route the water to it. Never route drain water to a neighbors property.

Of course, if you can’t drain it, use it!!! Where the water lays, create a bog garden. Plants that will work in such an area are: vinca, spiraea, viburnum, goat’s beard, phlox, ferns (shade), daylilies, irises, bamboo (clumping varieties), red twig or other shrub dogwoods, acorus ogon grass, french pussy willow, nishiki willow, giant pussy willow, solomon’s seal, liriope, maples, green ash, bald cypress, river birch, elm, white pine, hemlock, sourwood, tulip poplar, blueberry, cranberry, red chokeberry, sambucus, holly, spicebush, oaks, red bud, serviceberry, hostas (shade), anemones, and gaillardia. If you have a really marshy area, check at your local fish store for pond plants.


One last thing before I leave off this week. My daughter, Cydney, wanted something on an easy way to compost. Well, Cyd, I have come across a great way to compost without getting overly involved. Dig a trench about 12 to 14 inches deep where you plan to plant or create a garden next spring. Over spring and summer, toss in your kitchen wastes such as vegetable and fruit peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds, banana skins, corn husks, fish (bones, scales and heads), seafood scraps, and egg shells (though they need to be crushed into fine particles).

Do not add grease, oil, fats, ashes, seeds, or bones (other than fish or seafood).
Once you toss in your scraps, cover with a sprinkling of soil and then you will be ready for the next layer. Also, covering each layer helps to keep the local wildlife out of your compost trench. You want to be able to top your trench off with at least 6 inches of soil. Be sure to leave room for that. Over the summer and fall, the compost will “cook” so that by next spring you will have a wonderfully nutritious place for planting your new perennials or rows of vegetables.

That’s a lot of information for one setting.

Until next time…….Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cheryl@greenwoodnursery.com .

Landscaping Around Decks, Patios and Porches

Once the weather warms and decks, patios and porches are back in use, queries begin coming in requesting assistance in landscaping these areas. So, I thought it would be a good idea to offer these suggestions to all of our readers.

The first task is to sit on your patio, porch or deck and actually look out (away from the exterior walls). What do you see? Do you see an open never ending lawn or, maybe it’s a small enclosed area? What could you see as a focal point in your view? How do you feel about your deck? Is it quiet and cozy or more of an open space where you would prefer more privacy?

The answers to these questions will dictate how you landscape around your outdoor living area.

Let’s discuss patios and low level decks and porches first. Your point of view from sitting in your chair should give you looking into (not onto) the lawn area. Basically, the lawn becomes an extension of that outdoor space. Low level sitting areas take more advantage of the opening. Colors and textures can be used effectively from the immediate areas on to the outlying regions. The view will be complete from the tree tops all the way down to groundcover. So, be sure to add in lots of colorful perennials and shrubs into the outlying landscape.

Now, in landscaping around the perimeter of your low level deck (patio or porch), you will want to select plants with that in mind. If your outside living space is large and extends out considerably from the house, consider placing ornamental trees or other decorative plants.
The following is a great listing of plants for this purpose.

• Japanese red maple
• Emerald green arborvitae
• Crape myrtle
• Kousa dogwood
• Kwanzan cherry
• Sourwood
• Red bud
• Sweetbay magnolia
• Clumping bamboo
• Nishiki willow

Remember to allow for stepping stones or other access to the outlying areas. In planting along the edges, select low growing plants so as to not block the outward view. Staying in the 3 ½ foot range and below should work quite well, especially with taller plants in that range that are airy at the tops such as ornamental grasses.
The following lists plants that make excellent borders.

• Coreopsis
• Astilbe
• Gaillardia
• Heucheras
• Dwarf Spiraea
• Hydrangeas (Cityline series)
• Hostas
• Nandina dwarf firepower
• Nandina dwarf harbor
• Saliva
• Russian sage little spire
• Weigela
• Liriope
• Grass, Acorus Ogon
• Grass, Sporobolus h. Prairie Dropseed
• Grass, pennisetum Karley Rose
• Grass, Pennisetum Hameln
• Verbena-low growing
• Rosemary
• Lavender
• Sage

The biggest tip on landscaping around high level decks and balconies is to remember that you will be looking down onto the plants immediately around the perimeter and only seeing portions of the plants in the outlying areas. High level areas truly take on a different view of the lawn than low level areas and should be landscaped accordingly. High level decks are considered to be (roughly) 5 and 6 feet and higher off the ground.

Plant for fragrance, long blooming periods, lots of texture and slightly away from the deck so you are fully able to enjoy the plants. I have a list of plants that can work nicely in such situations.

• White birch
• Dogwoods
• Serviceberry
• Magnolias
• Tulip poplar
• Lilacs
• Crape myrtles
• Oakleaf hydrangeas
• Red bud
• Flowering cherry
• Sourwood
• Rhododendrons
• Holly

I hope this information gives you some ideas to build on in landscaping around your patio, porch, high or low level deck. Buy plants online at Greenwood Nursery Mail Order Nursery.

Accessible Gardening: Gardening with Limitations

Let's talk about some tips on how to make gardening easier and accessible for those with
disabilities or other limitations, whether they have arthritis, are in a wheelchair or are
visually impaired.

Maybe you or someone in your household has difficulty getting around in the
garden, so let's see what can be done to make it more enjoyable for them.

Gardening in raised beds and planters. It makes the plants much more
accessible to reach. About a 2-3 foot wide raised bed area (wider if access
is on both sides) should work for most people and its height should be
according to the person gardening in it. For example: a person in a
wheelchair would want the height anywhere from 18 to 24 inches tall, while
someone with arthritis may want to garden standing and could use a height
in the 3 to 4 foot range.

Use lots of pots or other containers such as window boxes low to the ground.
To help reduce the weight, use Styrofoam peanuts in the bottom half of the
containers and fill with soil. Anyone can plant everything from seeds,
perennials, small shrubs to small trees in containers. For ease in moving
the pots, use wheeled caddies which are available at most hardware stores.
Locate hanging baskets at lower levels or on benches for easier reach.
Garden up! Use trellises and other types of plant supporters.

Walkways should be a minimum of 3 feet wide. Ramps should be out of a
non-slippery material and a handrail maybe necessary. There are many
possible surface materials for walkways. However, packed soil is one of the
cheapest. Of course, it will be muddy during wet weather. Sandstone pavers
and brick are also good options but will be more costly. Remember, wood will
work, but will be slippery when wet.

For those visually impaired, choose plants that offer bright colors, variety
of textures and lots of fragrance. A wide assortment of perennials and herbs
works wonders for the senses. Group large areas of plants according to
colors for more impact, as those with only partial visual problems will be
able to locate them easier.

Use sound effectively. Add into the garden chimes, wind mills, fountains,
and birdhouses to create soothing sounds.

Who doesn't like a sandbox? It brings out the child in all of us. Take an
old barrel or other container and fill with coarse sand. It will make a
great exercise for arthritic hands (or even feet if the barrel is low
enough) and a perfect playground for children with physical limitations.

Visit Greenwood Nursery for easy to grow plants for these and other gardening projects.

For further reading on how to remake a garden to be more accommodating for
those with physical disabilities or limitations, check out these books at
your local library or bookstore.

Accessible Gardening for People with Physical Disabilities: A Guide to
Methods, Tools, and Plants by Janeen R. Adil

Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques for Seniors & the Disabled by Joann
Woy